3 Ways to Treat Acne Scars (and 4 Topical Products to Try Before Heading to a Physician)

If you have ever experienced severe acne, you may have acne scars. And, while acne scars do fade over time, sometimes these undesirable acne scars last and it might make you frustrated. It’s not always how you treat acne when you first have it that causes scarring, either. Some people have a genetic predisposition to how their skin responds to acne.

Types of Acne Scars

Discoloration

Acnes may cause dark spots that are pink, red, purple, brown or black. These are actually not acne scars, it is post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or PIH. This is a reaction where the skin produces more melanin in reaction to the acne inflammation. The discoloration will fade over time, but the discoloration can be minimized by encouraging new skin growth. To reduce PIH, exfoliate your skin regularly with a product that includes glycolic acid, use a product to reduce discoloration (Anew Clinical Absolute Even Multi-Tone Skin Corrector), and wear sunscreen because the sun will make discoloration darker as it reacts with the melanin.

Pits & Depressions

Some acne will leave indentations in the skin. This is a result of collagen in the skin being destroyed. These depressions, or pock marks, can have different appearances:

• Ice pick - long, deep indentations usually caused by cyst acne
• Boxcar - a rounded indentation usually caused by destruction of collagen when acne erupts
• Rolling - waves of skin, often caused when underlying layers of skin attach to skin and pull it tight

Growths

Some acne actually creates a chunk of skin growth. Keloid (Hypertrophic) scars are caused by an overproduction of scar tissues in reaction to a wound. Any wound can create a keloid growth, which typically raises above the skin.

 

Acne Scar Treatment Options

If you are in a place where you want to try to treat your acne scars, there are a few options.

Dermatologist or Esthetician Procedures

• Laser - Laser resurfacing surgery is ablative or non ablative. Ablative laser resurfacing (CO2 or erbium) is probably the number one choice for effectiveness, especially for atrophic scarring. However, this is a procedure that removes layers of the dermis through the epidermis, and therefore an open wound that needs care to avoid infection and may cause hyperpigmentation (discoloration). Ablative laser treatments target areas to stimulate collagen growth and smooth the skin. They also do not go as deep.
• Fillers - Dermal fillers are injected into the skin to help lift depression type acne scars and make the skin appear smoother. Unfortunately, this treatment is typically temporary.
• Punch excision -Typically used for ice pick type scars, this treatment cuts out the entire scar, and the remaining wound is sealed together. It can also be used to close large open pores.
• Skin needling - Collagen Induction Therapy is one of the newest professional treatments for acne scars. The procedure punctures the skin with micro needles, which creates tiny wounds that then stimulates new collagen growth.
• Subcision - Sometimes scars will seal into a pucker due to abnormal collagen growth. This type of scar can be rebuilt using subcision, where those puckering collagen fibers are released with a surgical needle, and this allows the scar to regrow evenly.
• Dermabrasion - This treatment removes layers of skin with a wire brush. This resurfacing of the skin encourages skin to repair as it grows back. Microdermabrasion uses an abrasive spray to remove skin layers.
• Chemical peels - Chemicals are used to peel off layers of the skin which stimulates collagen growth and encourage a smooth texture.

Natural

There are a variety of home remedies that have been suggested for the treatment of acne scars. Lemon juice has a natural bleaching property and contains natural AHA, and may work for areas of discoloration. Baking soda may work as a mild chemical peel. Tea tree oil may help reduce raised or hypertrophic scars. Aloe vera is great to help cells rebuild. I’ve also seen honey, which has natural antibiotics.

Topical

Topical, or over the counter acne scar treatments are non invasive. Topical treatments could be anything that stimulates collagen repair, vitamin a, or antioxidant, or treatments specifically formulated to address acne scar issues. Many people would rather try diy acne scar treatments or treatments without surgery by a dermatologist or treatments from an esthetician. The beauty of topicals is that no harm can truly be done, and if the treatment doesn’t respond with your skin concerns, you can proceed to the professional treatments.

• Microdermabrasion .. Anew Clinical Resurfacing Expert Smoothing Fluid

What it does: This product with AHA resurfaces the skin 79% as effectively as microdermabrasion

What the reviews say:

• Chemical peel .. Anew Clinical Advanced Retexturizing Peel

What it does: Using glycolic acids from plant products, these pads help retexturize and resurface the top layer of the skin to make it look smoother

What the reviews say:

• Discoloration .. Anew Clinical Absolute Even Multi Tone Skin Corrector

What it does: DSX-7 technology improves the appearance of discoloration, dark spots and red patches

What the reviews say:

 

• Replace collagen .. Anew Clinical Overnight Hydration Mask

What it does: Hyaluronic acid and shea butter work together to fill acne depressions and encourage collagen.

What the reviews say:

DISCLAIMER: The information provided here is meant for general information and is not intended to replace qualified medical expertise or treatment. I can answer general skincare questions, but for diagnosis, treatment or details about skin health, contact your physician, dermatologist or esthetician.

Acne Solutions

Nobody wants acne. But so many of us have it. And, honestly, acne is probably one of the most common skin problems we all face.

Acne is caused by infected hair follicles. The sebaceous gland creates sebum, which is an oily, waxy substance. When the hair follicle pore becomes clogged with dirt or dead skin cells (keratin), the sebum cannot be excreted and becomes susceptible to bacteria. This can develop into an infection, which creates acne in several different forms. There are MANY things that can cause the infected hair follicle: dead skin cell build up, hormones, a greasy environment, even stress.

If acne is severe, a dermatologist should be consulted because it might be a factor related to something else, or the dermatologist can provide a prescription topical or oral medication for the acne. Over the counter (OTC) products can help mild acne or occasional breakouts. Active OTC ingredients that have been proven effective for acne include Benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid. It is the ingredients that help solve acne problems, not scrubbing. If you have acne, avoid scrubbing or even exfoliating too frequently because that can damage the skin and actually make the acne worse.

Daily, consistent skincare is a lifestyle treatment for acne. In addition to diet and stress reduction to help control acne, cleansing and treating your facial skin will consistently keep the sebum production under control and help solve acne flare ups.

Enlarged pores are follicles that have been clogged with sebum, which makes the pore dilated, so it looks larger and more visible. (Pores are always open and present, but they usually don’t look visibly open.) Oily or oil producing skin makes pores look larger, so reducing the oil will contribute to a smoother looking skin. Cleanse with a gentle cleanser, preferably one with salicylic acid to exfoliate the pore and the skin’s surface. TRY Clearskin® Professional Deep Pore Cleansing Scrub with Salicylic Acid  Moisturize with a lightweight lotion, not a cream. TRY Anew Vitale Day Lotion SPF 25  

Blackheads are open comedones which are filled with sebum and keratin at the opening. The “black” is not dirt, it is actually the melanin that is present in the sebum and when it is exposed to air, it oxidizes and turns darker.

Pores can be extracted, but this should really be done by a licensed esthetician or dermatologist, as extractions can damage the skin or push bacteria further into your pores. Instead, TRY Clearskin® Professional Liquid Extraction Strip  OR Clearskin® Pore Penetrating Black Mineral Mask  Kerotolytic ingredients, like benzoyl peroxide, glycolic acid and salicylic acid, work to soften and loosen the keratin sitting in your pores. TRY Clearskin® Blackhead Eliminating Daily Cleanser

Whiteheads and pimples are closed comedones that have trapped bacteria and are inflamed and swollen from infection. Once a whitehead has developed, it becomes more difficult to treat. The best thing is to work to prevent closed comedones by cleansing daily. Whiteheads should never be “popped” at home; pins or extractors can never be sterilized enough and will cause bacteria to spread and contribute to skin scarring. Severe acne can be treated by a licensed esthetician or dermatologist.

Papules and pustules are more infected versions of pimples. As the bacteria increases, white blood cells attempt to destroy it, which can lead to further swelling and inflammation. Pustules may even have a yellow center. The white gunk that oozes from a large broken pimple is pus, which is a delightful combination of dead skin cells, bacteria and infection. TRY Clearskin® Blemish Clearing Overnight Treatment I also use a spot treatment of tea tree oil on painful whiteheads. Dip a cotton swab into the tea tree oil and apply directly onto the pimple area on freshly cleansed skin.

 

Milia are hardened chunks of keratin that are trapped just below the skin’s surface. They look like tiny pimples, but they do not look red or inflamed, don’t increase in size and do not go away like a pimple might over time. While the best way to remove these is with lancing at an esthetician’s office, milia can be reduced with microdermabrasion and prevented with daily cleansing and a sunscreen (because sun damage is a contributor). If the milia are really bothersome but you don’t want to head to the esthetician, TRY Anew Clinical Resurfacing Expert Smoothing Fluid

 

Nodules and cysts are buried beneath the skin’s surface. Nodules are hard spots of keratin, and cysts are filled with pus under the skin. Both can hurt! If you have nodules or cysts you really should be seeing a dermatologist for treatment. For severe acne treatment at home, but you cannot afford a recommended product such as Proactiv, TRY Clearskin® Professional Acne Treatment System 

 

Damage done? If you have been cursed with severe acne, or you used extraction methods that left scarring, you may have acne marks, redness, acne scars, or pick marks. Your skin has essentially been damaged, and it can take some serious effort to make your skin smooth and elastic again.

• Texture problems? Skin texture can look bumpy, uneven or leathery. TRY Anew Clinical Advanced Retexturizing Peel with Glycolic Acid . It is like having a glycolic peel at home!

• Discoloration or hyperpigmentation? Redness or other discoloration of the skin can occur after acne breakouts. TRY Anew Clinical Absolute Even Multi-Tone Skin Corrector . The advanced formula reduces the look of 7 types of discoloration: dark spots, uneven skin tone, post acne marks, brown patches, blotchy red patches, freckles, and sallowness.

• Acne scars? Do you have visible acne scars that appear like enlarged pores, craters or keloids? Microdermabrasion can work to correct the visibility of scarring, but if you aren’t ready to head to your esthetician for that, TRY Anew Clinical Resurfacing Expert Smoothing Fluid . It is 79% as effective as a professional microdermabrasion.

After treatment, help your skin rebuild collagen and elasticity with Anew Clinical Overnight Hydration Mask which includes encapsulated hyaluronic acid.

Summer Skincare Workshop

This is information archived from my Summer Skincare Workshop Facebook event on June 28th. 

My Skin Story

For a long time, I never did anything for my skin. Like, I would clean my face of course, but I never wore moisturizer or makeup. Then I realized that my skin was getting damaged.

Everyone was always yelling at me to wear sunscreen in the summer (which I did!) but it didn't matter. I would burn to a bright lobster red anyway... it didn't matter how much sunscreen, what SPF or how frequently I reapplied it... Red. And after the burn and the red... peeling. Not fun.

My face wasn't much better. That was also red all the time. I would flush (it sort of looks like blushing) but it was more than just embarrassment; my face would flush red in reaction to almost anything: cold, heat, changes in temperature, alcohol, and, yes, adrenalin. So I started wearing makeup to cover the red. I actually would shop for a concealer with a green tone and slather that on my cheeks and neck to cover the red. (Color theory: green and red are opposite on the color wheel and green neutralizes the red.) After I realized that product (!) could actually help my appearance and confidence, I started paying more attention to my skin.

7 Things That Damage Skin

Skin Type Tissue Test

SPF and Photoaging

SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor.  For basic protection, SPF 15 is ideal. Higher SPFs only offer a small percentage more of protection. And here's a dirty secret: SPF only protects against UVB. UVA also causes sun damage and skin cancer.

Ultraviolet light from the sun is categorized based on wavelength. UVA is long wave, UVB is short wave, and UVC doesn't penetrate the ozone.

In order to be protected from UVA rays, you have to see one of these phrases on your sunscreen product: multi spectrum, broad spectrum or UVA/UVB protection. These products will contain either a chemical UVA protective ingredient (like a somethingbenzone - there are several - or Ecamsule) or a physical UVA protective ingredient, like titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.

Photoaging is the lifetime accumulation of skin damage as a direct result of sun exposure (or tanning UV rays). There is actually a really fascinating anecdotal evidence of a truck driver who has photoaging effects clearly visible on the left side of his face. So, his face is significantly damaged and wrinkled, dry, and rough as a direct result of being exposed to sun on the left side of his vehicle because he spent so much time in the driver's seat! Crazy, right? Google "Bill McElligott".

UVB rays can penetrate the epidermis, is what causes sunburns, initiates the skin to produce melanin and can contribute to skin cancer.

UVA rays can penetrate deeper, into the dermis. Here, the skin's collagen and elastin can be damaged, and over time the dermis thins, causing the epidermis layer to droop and sag.

Sunburns are the initial clue that the sun has damaged the skin. However, signs of early photoaging can also include melanin production in spots (think freckles), the new presence of spider veins, and wrinkles that form around the eyes and mouth. Long term photoaging effects are seen more visibly as deep wrinkles, spider veins around the nose, rough skin texture, and most frightening, the presence of skin abnormalities that could signal skin cancer.

Sun is a significant contributor to skin aging: wrinkles, dry skin and age spots (increased melanin). Most skin damage from the sun happens during the summer. A single, simple way to prevent sun damage is sunscreen. SPF of 15 or higher, apply a lot, reapply frequently especially if you are sweating or swimming, choose one with broad spectrum protections (which has chemical or physical ingredients to protect from UVA as well as UVB). Use lip balm with an SPF. Wear hats, sunglasses and UV reflecting clothing. Make sure ears, neck, elbows and knees are covered. Men, women AND children/ white, ruddy, brown AND black skin all need sun protection (while darker skin have more melanin which acts as an SPF, and dark skin tans more than burns, sun damage is still occurring and skin cancer still is a risk!).

Skincare Solutions

How do you find solutions to your skincare problems? Well, you can:

1. Try your local drugstore, 
2. Look in Ulta, 
3. Browse high end department stores, 
4. See a dermatologist (especially important if you think you have something that might be skin cancer), 
5. Ask a friend about skincare products she recommends!